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This is a blog created by the sod experts at Green Brothers Earth Works. We will try to highlight some myths, answer frequent questions and offer advice on all matters sod. Green Brothers carries Bermuda, Centipede, Fescue and several varieties of Zoysia sod. Green Brothers does not offer installation but are familiar with numerous contractors that we can recommend or offer advice for those that want to do it themselves.

Material contained in this blog are the opinions of employees. Many items are from contributors such as Sod Solutions/Sod University, Walter Reeves, The University of Georgia and others. We do thank our contributors and give them full credit for their help. We do our best to verify factual information but much of the information is the opinions and experience of people who have been in the business for decades. Please feel free to contribute or call us out if you don’t agree with our position.

When to Mow new sod.

From our friends at Sod Solutions!

When to Mow Newly Installed Sod

New sod care is a popular topic of discussion amongst homeowners looking to take the best care of their new lawn after installation. Maintenance practices on new lawns like mowing, watering and fertilization all differ from regular maintenance practices on an already established lawn. As a homeowner, your job is to eliminate as much stress for your lawn as possible while your lawn tries to establish itself in your yard. With that being said, mowing at a proper height and at the right time can make a big difference in the overall success of establishment.

When can I mow my new sod?

The first day of mowing should take place 13–15 days after installation, which is generally about two weeks later. Before mowing, check on the progress your lawn has made with establishing by lightly tugging at the sod. Your sod SHOULD have begun producing little white roots that keep it from being pulled up from the ground easily. This is how you know it is the right time to begin mowing. If your sod still comes up from the ground too easily, consider waiting another few days before mowing.

Some guides may say to wait on your first mow until five weeks are up, but this is because you don’t want to risk mowing the sod too closely to the root. However, this will not be a risk you will encounter if you set your mower at the highest setting and only cut the tops of the leaf blades. If you start mowing and the pieces of your new lawn start coming up, you either have your mower set too low, or your sod has not put down sufficient roots as previously mentioned. Stop immediately and wait a few more days.

How do I mow my new sod?

Begin with setting your mower to the highest setting or the setting that is necessary to remove the top of the leaf blades. Mowing at a high setting encourages lateral growth, which in time will lead to the individual pieces of sod knitting together to become one seamless surface.

Why is mowing new sod different from mowing established sod?

The idea behind mowing newly installed sod is to promote lateral growth, as previously mentioned. The more lateral growth you have, the quicker your sod pieces will begin to form a seamless connection with other sod pieces. During the two weeks beforehand, your roots will grow and become strong in the ground. This helps with faster establishment.

If you wait too long to mow, you may be forced to remove more than 1/3 of the lead blade, which will cause unnecessary stress on your newly establishing lawn. Cutting more than 1/3 of the leaf blade also leaves less room in the  leaf’s surface for photosynthesis. Many homeowners are nervous to mow after only a few weeks from the day of installation. However, your main priority should be to minimize as much stress as possible for your newly establishing lawn.

How do I make sure my new lawn puts down roots before mowing?

Mowing your new lawn at the right height and at the right time will make a huge difference in the overall success of your new lawn’s establishment. It is just as important that you correctly feed your lawn with the nutrients it needs to get established. Fertilizing your new sod with the right nutrients will make sure your lawn promotes healthy root growth. This is usually accomplished with readily available phosphorus, along with the help of other nutrients in smaller amounts like potassium and carbon.

It’s Sod Webworm Season

From our friends at Sod University.

Sod Webworms in Home Lawns

Now is the time to be on the lookout for several different lawn pests, including the sod webworm. It is important to note that there is a big difference between the sod webworm and the fall armyworm. They are both pests commonly found throughout the United States that damage turf extensively. However, they are both different types of worms that change into very different looking moths. This Sod University installment discusses what a sod webworm is, how to search for symptoms of an invasion and how to treat an infestation.

What is a Sod Webworm?

So, let’s talk sod webworms. The sod webworm, sometimes called the tropical sod webworm is a lawn caterpillar that will invade your lawn usually around the months of May–July and will reappear in the fall. These are not to be confused with the fall armyworm or black cutworm. In the adult form, the webworm is a small beige moth, sometimes called a lawn moth or crambus, that has a one inch wingspan. It is the moth that begins the lawn damage process. The adult female moths fly at dusk, dropping eggs on the grass blade surfaces and thatch area of your lawn. The eggs are yellow in appearance and turn brown as they mature. Each female moth can lay as many as 200 eggs. After the eggs hatch, remarkably within 7–10 days, very small juvenile caterpillars, about 1/2 inch in size, emerge and begin to feed. Full grown caterpillars are 3/4 of an inch in length. It is possible to have as many as five separate hatches throughout the year.

How to Identify Sod Webworms

The first sign of an infestation of sod webworms is noticing transparent grass blades. The juvenile caterpillars do what is called “skeletonizing” a grass blade so that only the veining structure remains. They do this by eating the green out of the blade and leaving in transparent looking. You can see a visual representation of what this looks like in the image below.

The second indication will be the notching of the grass blades. The older mature caterpillars will feed on the blades leaving notches on the sides of the blade. The caterpillars feed at night and during the day, they curl up in a fetal position within their frass. Frass is moist, fresh, green fecal pellets that are found in the thatch and is another indication of the presence of sod webworms.

Another way to detect a problem is to do a soap flush. Put two gallons of tap water in a bucket and add two tablespoons of a lemon scented dishwashing detergent. Go to the area in your yard where you suspect a problem and pour the mixture within a 12 inch circle. You might consider taking a piece of rope to make a 12 inch circle so you can observe the area easier. It could take as much as five minutes, but this mixture will force the insects within the 12 inch circle to the surface where they will be visible on the blades of grass. You can use this to flush other harmful insects to the top for identification as well.

How to Manage Sod Webworms

Non-Chemical Control (Cultural Practices)
In general, healthy turfgrass is less prone to pest pressure and will recover much faster from pest damage. Here are a few cultural practices that may help control sod webworms:

  • Mowing Height: Maintain a proper mowing height for the variety of turfgrass you have in your yard. St. Augustine lawns should be mowed at two to four inches while zoysia should be mowed at .5–2 inches. Never cut more than 1/3 of the blade hight during one mowing.
  • Reduce Thatch: Mowing at the proper height and frequency will eliminate the chance of a thatch buildup.
  • Do Not Overwater: Your grass should only need about one inch of water a week including rainfall.
  • Turn Off Flood Lights: Turn your flood lights off at night since moths fly at night and are attracted to the light.

Chemical Control
Chemicals are usually applied to suppress larval (caterpillar) populations when they are feeding. Sample the thatch for sod webworms to determine how many are present before applying a registered insecticide. Best results are achieved by applying insecticides late in the afternoon or early evening when caterpillars are active. Remember to follow all specific label directions. This will ensure that you use the proper amount of chemical for your application, apply the chemical correctly and help you with properly adding any adjuvants necessary for the best efficacy. 

How to get your lawn ready for SPRING

Credits to our friends at Sod University

How to Get Your Lawn Ready for Spring

Spring will be here before you know it, and the time to get your lawn ready is now. It’s best not to wait until the days become longer and warmer to begin prepping your lawn; there are a few simple things you can do now that will make all the difference this spring and summer. Today we are sharing a simple checklist of pre-spring lawn tips that are sure to pay off in the coming weeks and months.

1. Clean Up Winter Debris

Winter weather brings fallen leaves, branches and other yard debris that has likely collected on your lawn over the course of the cooler months. A little picking up and raking will get your yard back to square for the spring season.

2. Apply a Pre-Emergent Herbicide

To avoid pesky weeds from cropping up and ruining your lawn before spring rolls in, apply a pre-emergent herbicide. The purpose of a pre-emergent is to stop weed germination early so that your turf can thrive. A pre-emergent, as its name suggests, prevents weeds from emerging in the first place—this is useful if you are expecting the same kind of weed to appear annually or to control weeds before they appear so that you can reduce labor spent outside hand-pulling them.

3. Apply a Fungicide

It can be hard to spot a disease if your lawn hasn’t started coming out of dormancy and turning green yet—everything may still look brown. If you suspect disease in your lawn or have had disease around this time of year in the past, it is recommended for you to apply a fungicide at a preventive rate first. Being safe is always better than being sorry. We have listed a few recommended fungicides below, but it is important to purchase a fungicide that targets the specific type of disease you’re dealing with. Combining fungicide chemistries is the most effective way of targeting and treating a disease in your turfgrass.

4. Begin Researching a Fertilizer Regimen

To maximize the health and beauty of your lawn, an appropriate fertilizer regimen is essential. It’s important to note that you will not want to apply fertilizer until your lawn has fully come out of its dormancy or else it won’t be effective—it is similar to feeding a pill to someone who is sleeping. Instead, use this time to start scoping out fertilizers that fit your lawn’s needs.

5. Don’t Wait to Mow

As soon as your lawn begins to see growth again, it’s important to begin mowing. Allowing grass to grow too tall can hinder root health and causes a variety of other issues in your lawn. Aim to mow at least weekly, if not more often in the early spring. During the first mow of the year, you will want to scalp and bag your fully established bermuda and zoysiagrass. This helps reduce amounts of thatch, which chokes your lawn off from sunlight, fertilizer or water. Your first mow should take place around mid-March. If it ever quits raining.

Spring Weed Control

Thanks to our friends at Sod University and Todd Valley Farms for this contribution.

Spring Weed Control: The Effective Use of a Pre-Emergent Herbicide

There is a lot of false data and misinformation surrounding pre-emergent use on lawns.  Pre-emergents, when used properly, can be one of the most effective tools for keeping your yard healthy and weed free. It is important to understand how they work and  what their limitations are before you can truly harness the power of this tool. First, it is important to note the difference between pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides. A pre-emergent, as its name suggests, prevents the weed from emerging in the first place—this is useful if you are expecting the same kind of weed to appear annually or to control weeds before they appear so that you can reduce labor spent outside hand-pulling them. A post-emergent herbicide kills weeds after they have already appeared—you’ve already spotted them growing in your lawn. Nick Radford of Todd Valley Farms Inc., who discusses the effective use of a pre-emergent as the season for spring pre-emergent applications grows closer.

Contrary to popular myth, pre-emergents do not prevent seeds from germinating. They attack seeds during the germination process. Pre-emergents work by blocking the plant from producing the protein that allows plant cells to divide during mitosis. This cell division is what we see as growth. The initial cell division happens inside the seed coat. If the seed does mature past this stage, the root development will have been damaged, causing the plant to die lacking the ability to properly find or process nutrition. The pre-emergent then also acts as a root pruner. This causes young vulnerable roots to turn inward and stunts their growth.

Photo Credit: www.geckopest.com

The other myth that I often hear is that if you aerate your lawn after applying a pre-emergent, it will make the pre-emergent ineffective. This is also not 100 percent true. It is not something that you should do as it does not help the effectiveness. However, if you must aerate after an application, it will not completely ruin the effects of the pre-emergent. Pre-emergents stay in your soil and create a barrier layer that seeds in this zone are affected by. The soil removed during the aeration process will break apart and fill back into the holes over time or you discard the dirt plugs letting the holes fill back in with remaining soil. In the case of the latter, you have wasted money on the pre-emergent that remained in the soil plugs you discarded.

Photo Credit: www.horizononline.com

Should I use a pre-emergent upon sod installation, seeding or plugging?

Use of a Pre-Emergent Upon Sod Installation or Seeding

There is no reason to use pre-emergent on newly laid sod. If you have taken all the proper steps prior to putting the sod down and thoroughly sprayed out all the pre-existing weeds, there should be few weeds that survive. Those that do survive are easily pulled by hand or controlled with a post-emergent later. It is important to know that the root pruning effect of the pre-emergent is damaging to sod. Some varieties of turfgrass are less susceptible to major damage, but it is not healthy for any variety. When you are seeding a lawn on the other hand, your common pre-emergents will kill the seed that you put down. It is never recommended to use Prodiamine, Dithiopyr, Isobexen or any derivative of these when seeding. It will destroy your lawn 100 percent of the time.

Use of a Pre-Emergent Upon Plugging

When you are plugging a lawn, it is highly recommended to use a pre-emergent. After spending a lot of time on experimenting with different pre-emergents on different types of plugs, I have not found one yet that damages the plugs. In fact, when you plug your lawn without pre-emergents, it takes two to three times longer for the yard to fill in!

I have read many, many university studies on pre-emergent herbicides and researched how pre-emergents work. Based on the studies and the data I found, this should not be the case. The root pruning properties and the effect it has on mitosis should prevent the plug from spreading or maybe living at all. I have a few theories for why this is not true for plugs. The best reason I can give is this: the stolons the plugs spread out obtain enough nutrients from the mother plant to sustain the root development through the layer of pre-emergent. The original plug is mature enough to not be affected by the pre-emergent. Whatever the reason, I have seen no damage to plugs using pre-emergent and the reduction of competition from weeds allows the plugs to fill in at an accelerated rate. Also, warm season grasses can have negative effects when post-emergent weed killers are applied in temperatures over 90 degrees Fahrenheit. For this reason as well, it is better to control the weeds before they become an issue.

When Should Pre-Emergents Be Applied?

Pre-emergents should be applied at least twice a year. They should be applied in the spring before the ground temperature reaches 55 degrees Fahrenheit. Then it should be applied again in the early fall after temperatures begin to come down. The exact dates for this differ depending on the climate zone you live in. It is my personal practice to make three applications a year: March 1st, June 1st and September 1st. A good tip is that it is better to apply it early rather than late. As previously stated, pre-emergents do not kill existing weeds—putting it down after weed seeds have germinated is not effective. Unless it is washed away by heavy rains, pre-emergents will remain dormant in your soil until the soil temperatures rise. So, applications made in the late fall may still be effective the following spring.

When you use it while planting grass plugs, you should put pre-emergent down immediately following the planting of the plugs. I recommend applying it to newly planted plugs every three months until the area has filled in completely. It should not be used if you have overseeded or intend to overseed within six to eight weeks (or sometimes longer depending on the pre-emergent used).

Which Pre-Emergent Should I Use?

There are many types of pre-emergents and many pre-emergents are the same with a different name. The two most common are Prodiamine and Dithiopyr (Dimension 2EW).  These are both good products and they both are easy to find and apply. It is important to know that no single pre-emergent works for all weed types. Prodiamine is less expensive and stays put in your soil longer. Dithiopyr is a little more expensive and can wash through your soil more easily, but it also has post-emergent properties that others do not have. It will kill young weeds up to the three-leaf stage of growth. This makes it a better choice if you are slightly late with your application. Most premixed over the counter pre-emergents have two or more varieties mixed to cover a broader spectrum of weeds. I personally like to use a combination of Prodiamine, Dithiopyr and a small percentage of Isoxaben (linked below). I have found this to be the most effective for the large variety of weeds I encounter.

Winter Lawn Maintenance

From our great friends at Sod University / Sod Solutions

Winter Lawn Maintenance Tips

Winter maintenance for a wide variety of turfgrasses slightly differs from that of spring, summer and fall. Your lawn is no longer in the active growing season. In fact, most warm-season lawns go dormant around this time. Winter maintenance is still just as important as other seasonal maintenance practices as your winter care will greatly determine how well your lawn comes out of dormancy in the spring. Although you shouldn’t have to spend as much time maintaining your lawn during the active growing season, winter maintenance is still a vital part of caring for your lawn.

Water

Watering maintenance practices during the winter aren’t usually as important in areas that receive rain or snow. In most areas, you will just need to water your lawn less than the active growing season. However, if you are in an area that receives a really dry winter, be sure to water your lawn enough so that the soil receives nourishment and keeps grass blades from drying out. Your lawn is dormant—this doesn’t mean it is dead and doesn’t still need water.

Mowing

It is now getting cooler outside and it’s obvious that you won’t need to mow as frequently as you have been all year. Our recommendation is to keep your grass a bit taller than normal. When grass is too short, it doesn’t offer as much protection, and allows for frost to get into the growing areas of your lawn. Keeping this area as protected as possible with slightly taller grass creates a barrier-like protection for the grass blades and stolons.

Fertilization

Fertilization should generally take place during the active growing seasons. There is really not a need to apply fertilizer, herbicide or fungicide during the winter. It is similar to giving someone a pill while they are sleeping—it won’t be as effective. However, when spring comes, it will be time to fertilize your lawn. Researching different fertilizers that match your lawn’s needs is something you can go ahead and start doing.


Keep your lawn clean and avoid excessive traffic

Your grass is probably dormant, meaning it’s not going to put a lot of energy into restoring itself after heavy traffic. Taking as much care of your lawn as you can by reducing traffic while it is “asleep” is one of the best preventative maintenance practices you can do. It keeps your grass from having to spend a bunch of energy restoring itself when it comes out of dormancy. Instead, let your grass focus its energy on flourishing as it comes out of dormancy. Do not let leaves stay on the lawn. Wet leaves on a dormant lawn is an invitation for problems and can make the lawn coming out of dormancy a much tougher process on the grass.

Watch for winter weeds

Lastly, keep an eye out for winter grass weeds. As stated earlier, applying an herbicide during the winter isn’t always effective since your lawn is dormant. However, you can still go out and handle weeds. Common winter weeds to look out for include:

  • Deadnettle,
  • Chickweed,
  • Annual bluegrass, and
  • Prickly lettuce.

A little winter work will help your lawn look good when spring arrives.

Fall Weed Control – Now is the time.

Thanks for this from our friends at Sod Solutions.

The heat of summer is slowly coming to an end and the cool temperatures of fall are finally among us. When it comes to the beginning of fall, a lot of people may think that this signifies the end of lawn care. Although time spent outside on your lawn may be greatly reduced, the time that takes place between summer and fall is still important for preparing your lawn for winter and next spring. Applying a pre-emergent herbicide to prevent winter weeds is one of the best things you can do for your lawn during this time.

Certain annual weeds can continue to grow during the winter. These include poa annua, common chickweed, purple deadnettle, and henbit. Certain annual weeds typically emerge in the fall and winter and continue to grow actively in spring. After they flower in spring and disappear during the summer, they often return again in the fall or winter when seeds germinate.

What is a Pre-Emergent Herbicide?

Pre-emergent herbicides, as the name suggests, are a category of herbicides that prevents weeds from appearing in the first place. The difference between a pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicide is a pre-emergent herbicide should be applied before a weed grows while a post-emergent herbicide should be applied if you already have weeds in your lawn. Pre-emergent herbicides form a barrier in the soil that prevents weeds from sprouting or germinating as illustrated in the image below. It can be hard to get rid of weeds once they are already growing in the spring, so get ahead of the game by applying a pre-emergent herbicide in the fall and save yourself time and money—especially if you already know which weeds tend to come around in the spring every year.

Photo Credit: https://www.horizononline.com/when-to-apply-pre-emergent-herbicide/

Apply a Pre-Emergent in the Fall

The best time to apply a pre-emergent herbicide to your lawn is between the months of August and November for both warm and cool season grasses. Your soil temperature should be below 70 degrees and dropping. Be sure to follow up with a second application of a pre-emergent herbicide in the spring before temperatures start to warm up as well.

Selecting a Pre-Emergent Herbicide

When it comes to selecting a pre-emergent herbicide, choices can be daunting. Narrow down the selection process by looking for an herbicide that works on the type of weed you are seeing and for your type of grass. Most herbicides will say on the back of the product which grasses they can and shouldn’t be used on as well as which weeds they will kill. It is important that you choose a selective herbicide. A non-selective herbicide will kill all plants it comes in contact with—including your grass. A selective herbicide will kill only the weeds you want to rid your lawn of. Once you have simplified your choices of herbicides, the last thing to choose between may be a granule vs. a liquid herbicide. Liquid herbicides are usually mixed with water and then sprayed. Granular, or dry herbicides, are small pellets coated with herbicides that can be applied with a push spreader or a hand-held spreader. Either choice of granular or liquid herbicides will perform well on your lawn. The most important thing to look for is that it kills the weeds you have and works with your type of grass.

Maintenance – Weed Control

A weed is a wild plant growing where it is not wanted and in competition with other cultivated plants or grass.  Truth be told, almost all lawns have some weeds. What we are talking about here is weed control—not 100 percent weed elimination.

FOUR WAYS TO REDUCE WEEDS IN YOUR LAWN

1. MAINTAIN A LUSH, HEALTHY LAWN

In order to establish itself in your lawn, a weed needs the same three things your lawn requires: contact with the soil, water, and sunlight.

For this reason, weeds are more likely to sprout up in bare or thin spots of your lawn. Your best defense against weeds is to maintain a healthy, lush, dense canopy of grass that outcompetes a weed’s ability to establish itself. The thicker your lawn’s canopy, the less likely weeds will be capable of growing.

Lawns with open canopies such as St. Augustine grass, or those that are slow to recover from damage (centipede grass, some tall fescues, and bluegrass) expose themselves to weed establishment more than those with thicker canopies (zoysiagrass) or those with more rapid recovery from damage (bermudagrass).

2. CONSIDER MOWING YOUR OWN LAWN

If you pay the neighborhood boy to mow your lawn or hire a professional, keep in mind that your lawn is being mowed with the same equipment that just mowed another type of grass. Therefore, it is very likely dispensing small plantlets of another grass variety into your lawn.

For example, if you have a brand new zoysiagrass lawn and Johnny mows it right after mowing the bermudagrass lawn of Mrs. Smith, then you will probably have bermudagrass in your zoysiagrass before too long. This threat is primarily a concern in warm season lawns that are propagated vegetatively, meaning a fragment of the parent plant reproduces more plants.

3. FREQUENT MOWING & HAND PICKING

The great thing about mowing your lawn (assuming you have a walk behind mower) is that you get to walk every foot of your lawn pretty regularly, allowing you to keep a close eye on the status of any potential weeds.

Mowing a weed before it puts up a seed head will eliminate that weed’s ability to spread seeds and propagate the next generation, so mowing alone can be one form of weed control.

If your lawn has relatively few weeds, you should consider just hand picking them. Be sure to pull out the root if you can. It’s good exercise and its 100 percent organic.

4. USE HERBICIDES

Herbicides can be selective or non-selective. Selective herbicides kill some plants but not others. For example, a selective herbicide might kill dandelions, but it will do so without bringing damage to your lawn.

A non-selective herbicide kills all plants in comes in contact with. Unless you want to kill your lawn to replace it, you will only want to use selective herbicides that specifically state they will not kill your lawn type on the label.

Herbicides control weeds one of two ways: before they germinate or after. A pre-emergent herbicide is used preventatively to keep weeds from popping up in the first place. A post emergent herbicide is used after a weed has already established itself in your lawn.

A Word of Caution for Newly Sodded Lawns:

The sod from sod farms are treated on a regular schedule. If you happen to see a weed while laying the sod, its no big deal. Chances are it has already been treated and is dying but it doesn’t hurt to pull it out while its right there.

A pre-emergent contains a chemical that prevents a weed from putting down roots. As a root inhibitor, it can also negatively affect your newly sodded lawn since it too will be trying to put down roots.

If you successfully killed and removed your old lawn including all the weeds in it, your newly sodded lawn should have relatively few weeds. It is suggested that you hand pick weeds out of your newly sodded lawn for the first season.

Nutsedge

A word about one of the toughest weeds to get rid of and why it shows up in your newly sodded lawn. This discussion has been had many times and after consulting several sod farms, The nutsedge in your newly sodded lawn didn’t come in with the sod. Nutsedge is a plant that reproduces primarily by tubers. When the soil is disturbed either by tilling, digging or raking, you may bring dormant tubers toward the surface where conditions are right for them to grow. If your nutsedge is from tubers and not the nut, it is easier to get under control. Sledgehammer is a brand of herbicide that does very well controlling nutsedge.

Maintenance – Fertilization

GET YOUR LAWN ITS NUTRIENTS

It is becoming clear that alternatives to traditional granular fertilizers exist today. Advanced research and new technology have led to the development of liquid fertilizers worthy of serious consideration.

It is worth noting that the original fertilizers were basic manure from livestock or burned ash spread over fields. Luckily, homeowners today have many less primitive and less odorous options at their disposal. Synthetic granular and liquid fertilization products are either dry coated granules of individual elemental compounds mixed together in a bag or water-soluble elemental compounds mixed together in a bottle.

granular fertilizer

Regardless of the delivery method, these products focus primarily on delivering the three big nutrients that plants need, as denoted by the three numbers you see on bags and bottles of fertilizer, representing the % of each element present in the formulation.

  • Nitrogen (N)
  • Phosphorus (P)
  • Potassium (K)

Nitrogen is unique because, unlike Phosphorus and Potassium, which are naturally present on earth in mineral compounds, it is only naturally present because it is the most abundant gas in our atmosphere. Nitrogen must be combined with Hydrogen to form ammonia, which is then used to create the fertilizers we apply to our lawns as either urea (the most common and cheapest form) or oxidized nitrate fertilizer. Ultimately, Nitrogen gets used in a multitude of metabolic functions of plants, including the formation of amino acids, which are the building blocks of plant protein. You literally see nitrogen at work in the beautiful green color of plant tissue and healthy leaf growth.

Vigorous root growth and enhanced plant vitality can be attributed to Phosphorus. Careful application is essential because it is often abundantly found in soils. Starter fertilizers will include Phosphorus to ensure new sod or seed will put down roots and establish fast.

Potassium plays a key role in photosynthesis by regulating intake of Carbon Dioxide and helping move proteins, water, and other nutrients throughout the plant. In addition to the big three macronutrients, there are a number of other essential micronutrients that play a role in plant health such as carbon, calcium, iron, manganese, copper, magnesium, sulfur, and zinc which all support various metabolic functions of plant health.

One would think if you just applied all of these elements, a great lawn would result. Unfortunately, it isn’t quite that easy. Three critical, often ignored factors can have a large effect on the efficacy of fertilizer. The first is soil pH, the second is the differing needs of the individual elements depending on the plant, and the third is ionic chemistry.

homeowner watering lawn with liquid fertilizer

All of these topics could be the focus of their own feature. That said, a quick summary of these factors  explain why liquid fertilizers can have an edge in each of these categories.

The pH level in soils have a direct impact on a plant’s ability to take in various elements, which is why pH levels are so essential to plant health. Luckily, with a pH ranging roughly from 6.5 to 7.5, the macro and micronutrient uptake potential is pretty high across all elements. Venture into a pH of 8.5 and they fall precipitously for Nitrogen, Phosphorous, Iron, Manganese, Boron, Copper, and Zinc. When pH is low starting at 6.0, Nitrogen, Potassium, Calcium, and Magnesium efficiency begin to take a dive. The bottom line is always keep your pH in check for best results. This can easily be done with an at-home soil test or by sending a sample to a nearby extension service or university soil lab.

Soil tests will also let you know what nutrient deficiencies you may have in your soil. All plants have a genetic yield potential that can be reached when the right nutrients are available at the right time. However, in order to be available to the plant, they must first be broken down into a liquid form small enough to be absorbed by the root system or leaves. When you apply a granular product, the granules sit in the soil waiting for water and microbes to break them down so they can be eventually taken in by the plant. When pH or microbial population levels are not right, this process does not happen efficiently or, even worse, may be completely halted. Fortunately, that is not the case with liquid fertilizers.  They are broken down small enough to be absorbed directly into the plant tissue of leaves and roots without external action.

Achieving your best lawn can happen with either granular or liquid products. 

Maintenance – Mowing

LAWN MOWING GUIDE

Regularly mowing your lawn promotes vertical growth and lateral density; it also provides the manicured look you desire. However, not all grass types are mowed at the same height, so you need to know your lawn type and what it requires.

MOWING HEIGHT

Many people choose to pick a lawn height and mow their lawns at this same height year-round. However, a better option is to vary heights at different times of the year.

The idea behind altering your mowing heights is to start and finish the mowing season with shorter grass, but to let it grow a bit taller during the hottest times of the year (June–August). This is to promote root growth, keep more moisture in the grass, and aid in times of drought conditions.

Check out the table below for more details as to what heights work best with differing grass varieties.

Mowing Height Ranges by Grass Type

St. Augustine Between 2″–4″

Zoysia (fine) Between 0.5″–1.5″

Zoysia (coarse) Between 1″–2″

Bermudagrass Between 1″–2″

Centipedegrass Between 1.5″–2″

Bluegrass Between 1.5″–2.25″

Tall Fescue Between 3″–4″

MOWING FREQUENCY AND CONSISTENCY

Because most of us are weekend warriors, we tend to mow our lawns either weekly or every other week. Whatever you choose, try to remain consistent.

If you are not able to periodically maintain this schedule (rain, vacation, broken lawn mower, etc.), and your lawn gets really tall, you will want to avoid removing more than 1/3 of the leaf blade in one mowing.

This will stress your lawn and make it go brown for a short time. Instead, you will want to mow multiple times (wait about three to five days between mowing) to get the grass back down to the desired height.

MULCHING

If you have a mulching lawnmower, you should make use of it. Mulching provides free organic material for your lawn and saves you the hassle of bagging. However, mulching may require weekly mowing.

Because grass grows more in late spring and summer, you will be removing more cuttings at this time of year. A weekly mowing and mulching schedule will allow the cutting to be incorporated into your lawn seamlessly.

Mulching every other week in the late spring and summer may result in excess cuttings sitting on top of your lawn, which can be unsightly.

Maintenance – Soil Management

SOIL MANAGEMENT FOR LAWNS

Have you ever heard of the saying that you are what you eat? The same can be said for your lawn’s health starting at the source of nutrient uptake, i.e. the grass’s roots and the soil it inhabits. The quality of your soil plays a huge factor in the overall health of your lawn. Soil provides nutrients, water, air, and a place of anchorage for your grass roots. On the other hand, soil can also contain insects, diseases, nematodes, or overall poor nutrient quality. This blog will cover a general understanding of soils, soil pH levels, and how soil interacts with plant roots so that your lawn is vibrant and healthy.

SOIL TYPE

There are three types of soil: sandy soil, clay soil, and loamy soil.

Sandy Soil

Sandy soil is coarse and gritty to the feel and water moves through it quickly, so it has a low water holding capacity. For this reason, sand is poor in nutrient content.

Sandy soil’s nutrient content can be improved by regularly adding organic material, such as compost or well-rotted manure. This will help improve (slow down) drainage, increase the water holding capacity, and as a result increase plant nutrients.

Clay Soil

Clay soil is reddish brown and is fine and powdery when dry. In contrast to sand, water moves through it slowly, so it has high water holding capacity—typically, too much. Clay soils can be rich in plant nutrients, but the pH is often too high or low, so those nutrients are not available to plants.

Clay soil can be improved by adding organic material, such as compost or well-rotted manure. This will improve (increase) drainage and provide more appropriate water holding capacity. Organic material will also lighten heavy soil.

Loamy Soil

Loamy soil is dark brown and contains clay and sandy soil in moderate proportions with some organic material. Water moves through it at a moderate rate, so it has a moderate water holding capacity. It is rich in plant nutrients. For this reason, loamy soil is ideal for growing healthy grass.

SOIL PH

Image from https://www.agric.wa.gov.au/soil-acidity/soil-ph

pH is a way to explain the amount of hydrogen ions in a solution. In other words, the more hydrogen ions in a solution, the more acidic the soil. Think of pH as the mouth to your grass by which it consumes plant nutrients. The pH scale ranges from 0, highly acidic, to 14, highly alkaline. The mouth of your grass is “wide open” when it has a pH of 6.0 – 7.0, which is neutral and ideal for growing healthy grass. This means that your soil is in the ideal range to receive nutrients.

Grass grown in soils that are too acidic or too alkaline cannot adequately access plant nutrients, whether they occur naturally in the soil or are applied in the form of fertilizer. If you are applying fertilizer to your lawn without knowing the pH to your soil, you could very well be wasting your money. Don’t do it. Instead, invest more time and money in determining the pH balance of your soil first. pH soil testing kits are inexpensive and reliable.